Fashion Photographers

Fashion photography is often perceived as the most glamorous and highly paid photographic role, involving overseas travel, exotic locations and beautiful models as a continual backdrop. However, for the majority of practitioners, the reality is more mundane. Fashion photographs are commissioned by a variety of publications, ranging from mail-order catalogues to high-fashion magazines, and the working methods, as well as the skills required of the photographer, vary accordingly.

Responsibilities Fashion Photographers work both in studios and on location, producing images that illustrate and advertise clothes and accessories.

Mail-order catalogue photographers must work quickly and economically, with a variety of models and situations, illustrating the style and features of clothes as truthfully as possible. They are usually employed by photographic or design studios. They spend days, or weeks, working on a range of clothing, producing enough photographs each day to fill several catalogue pages. These photographers enjoy the benefits of regular employment, such as a monthly salary and paid holidays, but can never earn as much as practitioners at higher levels of the industry.

High-level Fashion Photographers have their own studios or, very rarely, a studio supplied by their clients. They have an intense interest in fashion, with very good contacts within the fashion publishing business, and are innovative and creative photographers. The material rewards can be extremely high but photographers who work in this discipline have to employ very specific and individual interpersonal skills.

Skills

Catalogue Photographers This area of fashion photography requires photographers to be good employees - reliable, good team members, and able to maintain employers' confidentiality. Even at this level the photographer must be able to control studio or location situations where the photographer, models, stylists, make-up artists and hairdressers all work together towards a common goal. They must have excellent photographic skills, and work closely and quickly to the designer's brief.

Magazine Photographers Photographers in this area supply fashion photographs to weekly or monthly magazines, weekend supplements, etc. They need good photographic skills, and the ability to follow and interpret a designer's brief. Excellent management and interpersonal skills are also required, to arrange the efficient organisation of the studio or location. These photographers often work via an agency, with the agent taking responsibility for marketing the photographers' work and securing assignments, on a percentage commission basis.

High Fashion Photographers These high-level, high profile, highly paid photographers operate either from their own studio, or from a rented studio on location. Their success and elevation to this role are the results of years of experience gaining technical, visual and interpersonal skills, and making contacts in the industry. At this level they work with, and normally are expected to select, a team of specialists including assistants, stylists, set-builders, scene-painters and models. These photographers are dedicated, hard-working professionals producing unique and innovative images, which not only satisfy the clients' visualization, but communicate the feel and concept of the clothing or accessories. To work in this area, excellent social skills are required. The Fashion Photographer's day does not end with the last shot in the studio or on location; they must continue making contacts and retaining clients by networking and attending social functions.

Experience/qualifications Fashion photography requires more than a passing interest in fashion. Good Fashion Photographers are totally immersed in the subject, and need excellent technical and visual skills to give their photographs the required 'look'. These photographers rarely work in quiet studios, with only camera, lights and music for company - they work in busy studios, and must have sufficient experience to operate effectively under these conditions. Potential Fashion Photographers should be prepared to study previously published photographs to appreciate the work of the fashion 'greats', develop sound photographic skills, and gain a high level of social and interpersonal skills.

Some colleges and universities offer courses specialising in fashion photography, employing established photographers as visiting lecturers. These courses provide a sound photographic grounding, and can give the potential Fashion Photographer an idea of what is involved, but working as an assistant is probably the best preparation for the reality of the fashion world (see specification for Assistant Photographer). This can provide invaluable experience, offering the opportunity to meet clients, art directors, models, etc., to hear their discussions with photographers, and to understand the details of the preparation, execution and presentation necessary to the job.

Employers may support work-based qualifications, such as Apprenticeships and NVQ/SVQs. Apprenticeships are available in Photo Imaging, incorporating Key Skills, a Technical Certificate (C&G 6924), and an NVQ at level 2 or 3. NVQ/SVQs are available at levels 2, 3 and 4 in Photography, levels 2, 3 and 4 in Digital Imaging, and levels 3 and 4 in Digital Photography & Imaging.

Membership of a Professional Association such as BIPP (British Institute of Professional Photographers) or AOP (Association of Photographers) may also be beneficial. The BIPP offers a range of qualifications, enabling a candidate to benchmark their skills level against other successful practitioners working in the industry. The AOP campaign vigorously for photographers' rights and their publication 'Beyond the Lens' is widely recognized as the definitive industry guide to copyright and licensing law, ethics and business practice.